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Fiskars X7 Hatchet/Axe Improvements to Handle and Sheath

Fiskars X7 Hatchet/Axe Improvements to Handle and Sheath

Hey Youtube friends! SurvivalKraft here!
In this video, I want to show you the modifications I did to my Fiskars X7 hatchet. Like many of you out there I love Fiskars hatchets. They are great
lightweight hatchets to go out into the woods with. They’re probably not as durable as
something like a Grandsfor Bruks or a Wetterlings hatchet. However they’ll hold up to most of the outdoor tasks you’re going to put it
through, and you’re not going to feel this riding on your pack or your belt
quite as easily. Now when you get these
hatchets they do not come with proper belt sheaths. These have handles
that go up over the top and there’s no
attachments that allow you to rig this to a belt sheath. So what I did here is I cut off the handle and I rounded all the edges on the back so that it’s not going
to catch on my clothes or rub against my skin if I wear it on my belt. I drilled four holes in it and chamfered those holes here, here, here, and here. Then I ran paracord through the back and tied knots in each end and then melted the knots. I took a soldering iron and stippled
the lock over here on the sides and on the front
face so that I can quickly find it and unlock the hatchet. So, in that way I turned the old-style sheath that’s supposed to be
just hand-carried and I turned it into a belt sheath. Now
I’ve worn this out into the woods once and it works really well. It rode fine and it seems even without the carry
handle, which gives it some structural stability, that’s a hard one to say “structural
stability.” *Laughing* Even with that gone in still seems to be
fine. It doesn’t warp or bend. I also made a modification to the hatchet
itself. I took it and I stippled the handle up top. Now I’m not going to stipple it down here for multiple reasons. The biggest one
is that I don’t want the heavy aggressive stippling where I’m going to place my hand for
heavy chopping. That’s okay if I have gloved hands, but
otherwise its just too aggressive. I’ll probably
just tear up my hand and cause blisters. However, I did decide to do
stippling up top, and the reason is is that
when I ride up on this to do, you know, let’s say, make feathersticks, or I want to plane a piece of wood or something
like that, this allows me to get a really good grip on it and allows me to not slip or for it to manipulate in my
hand. I can get a good, solid push and know that I’m staying flat and level. So that goes right here the and around to the other side. It
provides great traction and that was all done just with a
soldering iron. It did take a long time. It took about three hours but it was
definitely worth it. So those are the modifications I made to
my Fiskars hatchet. If you have any suggestions, I would
love to hear them. And as always, thank you guys for
watching, and have a great day!

21 thoughts on “Fiskars X7 Hatchet/Axe Improvements to Handle and Sheath”

  1. That's some pretty cool modifications man, I really like how you did the handle, very cool. Maybe you can do a "how to" video on that?! 🙂 God Bless.

  2. Pretty cool mods Brendon. I have the small Fiskars Camp Ax. I think I may just have to stipple the upper part of the handle like you've done. Great idea.

  3. Just ordered this today and was wondering how to carry it back packing. Thanks for this video! Will try to follow suite. Great ideas 🙂

  4. hey buddy, sweet idea about the sheath. though i dont wanted to loose the handle ability, i just placed a cord around the top of the handle and put a carabiner in there. will think about that again, too. its not optimal.

    the other thing i modified: i sprayed the whole axe and sheath in signal orange, except the axe head and orange handle. looks terrible colorwise, but who cares. i wanna find it on the ground. its almost impossible finding the sheath on the ground if its dark. no matter if gras or earth.

    next mod ill do (again): put anti slippery tape over certain areas, except the rubber area.
    and i will wrap a double layer of (this time light blue) 4 mm paracord over the upper part of the axe -> from right under the axe head down to 1/3 of the axe.

    this is important in like batoning or when using as a hammer, as often u will hit the handle in the upper part. also u can grab the handle better and more secure then.

    i like how u present things here, very sympathic. keep it up.

  5. I do not understand why fiskars does not make a belt carry sheath. We have to figure out how to make one. Thank you for the video. I agree it is a good idea to salvage the plastic sheath. But how to carry it on your belt is a problem. There is a hole at the handle end, but that is probably for paracord to put on your wrist. I would rather have the hatchette head on my belt and not slapping my leg.

  6. Hey is it me or mine came with a belt thing on the back? I just bought one today and it's got like a slot for the belt

  7. First thing I'm going to do when I get this in the mail is grind the back side so it could strike my fire steel

  8. Fine at first glance, but… an axe belt sheath without ANY rotation really doesn't work well sitting down on the ground, does it. Now the axe (with naked edge=unprotected edge) must be removed as you must else open up your belt to remove the sheath. Doesn't sound practical at all. Shame that it is not showed with a belt.

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